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Legian Expatriate Guide with Covid-19 Travel Report South Bali

Wolfgang Holzem

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legian-1000x600

Legian is a beachfront town in South Bali, north of Kuta and south of Seminyak.

Understand

Legian beach.jpg

Stretching north from Kuta, Legian offers the same easy access to shops and bars but a slightly more relaxed and less chaotic feeling. It is a low-key area where you can still get the low prices of Kuta without some of the hassle. The northern area of Legian bordering Seminyak offers a bit of an escape from the crowds and is also a popular surf beach.

Orientation

This is a small area fronting the beach which stretches from Jalan Melasti (where Kuta ends), north to Jalan Arjuna (better known as Jalan Double Six) where Seminyak begins. Most of the popular Legian hotels are on or close to the beach. The whole of Legian is no bigger than a few blocks in a large city, but despite its small size, this area has a very high profile with visitors due to the lovely beach frontage, and proliferation of mid-market hotels.

The most popular stretch of Legian Beach is at the bottom of Jalan Padma, and is sometimes called Padma Beach. It is more relaxed than Kuta, has a better and less crowded surf break, and is home to many nice vendors selling beers under umbrellas. There is easy parking here for Rp 1,000 per motorbike.

There is a long north-south road between the beachfront hotels and the beach, which is only open for authorised vehicles when there is a ceremony being held. Otherwise it is a well paved footpath, and makes for an excellent walking route, allowing users an easy beach-side stroll along to restaurants, bars and nightclubs on Double Six Beach.

The main road is Jalan Legian which can get very jammed indeed. All roads to the beach run westwards, more or less perpendicular to Jalan Legian.

Map of Legian

Get in

The airport is located south of Legian and a taxi or car journey from there will take about will take about 20 minutes. A pre-paid coupon taxi fare from the airport is Rp 55,000.

Kuta and Seminyak are either side of Legian and you can walk, drive or bike in from both those areas.

Get around

Most of Legian can be covered on foot if you are not in a hurry, but taxis are plentiful as are motorbike rental outlets. Expect to pay Rp 50,000 to 80,000 per day for renting a motorbike.

What to see and do

Aside from the obvious (the gorgeous beach!), there is not a great deal to see in Legian. It is a place where visitors stay, shop, eat, drink and go to the beach. Legian Beach is one of the best in Bali for viewing the sunset.

What to do

The beach

Surfboards on Legian Beach

Head into the ocean with boogie boards (Rp 20,000/hour) and surfboards hired from at beach or take surfing lessons from the Surf School based at Blue Ocean beach. Quiksilver surf school offers lessons lasting 2.5 hours for Rp 390,000 (+62 361 791 2220, [1]). They also rent boards for Rp 50,000 per hour, but if you have taken lessons with them, you can get a reduced rate of Rp 20,000 per hour. If renting from locals on the beach, be sure to use this fact to get a good price.

On Saturday and Sunday evenings, the beach front is packed with tourists, expats, locals and motorbikes, with fire pois and musicians jamming on the beach – you’ll be more than welcome to join in.

Almost every evening at about 17:00 a game of beach football begins right in front of de ja vu on Blue Ocean Beach. Visitors are normally welcomed if they want to join in.

A more leisurely beach pursuit is to situate yourself, cocktail in hand, at one of the many beach front cafes on this stretch, and watch one of the world’s great sunsets. Be in position by about 17:30.

Spas and treatments

Informal massages, manicurespedicures and hair braiding, are all widely available while you relax on the beach in this area.

  • Glow Spa At MandiraJalan Padma 2 (opposite Padma Hotel), . 10:00-20:00 dailyA spa treatment based upon the principles of restoring balance, beauty and harmony to mind and body From Rp 205,000.
  • Legian Beach SpaJl Melasti (at the Legian Beach Hotel), . 09:00-19:09A full range of treatments on offer including from basic therapeutic massage, to Javanese ‘Lulur’ body scrub and “Rempah and Honey” treatment, a traditional massage followed by a body mask of honey, clay, flowers and roots. Massage from Rp 200,000. Waxing from Rp 80,000..
  • Talaga SpaJl Dewi Sri 16, . 09:00-21:00A high-end day spa offering a variety of treatments and packages lasting from 90 minutes to three hours. Specialise in the use of VCO (virgin coconut oil). From US$45.

Buy

Legian is crammed full of shops selling everything from the latest designer surfware to Balinese souvenirs to take home. This is a shopping destination. Covering the main shopping area in Legian will not take too long. It encompasses Jalan Melasti, Jalan Padma, Jalan Werkudara and Jalan Arjuna, all of which run perpendicular to Jalan Legian on the beach side. Jalan Padma is especially good for beads, shell work and other similar trinkets. Jalan Arjuna is lined with small stores selling sarongs and fabrics. On Jalan Legian look for slightly more upmarket boutiques, and the ubiquitous surfwear/sportswear stores (although the larger of these are in neighbouring Kuta).

There are two markets on Jalan Melasti. Close to the beach at the western end there is a large art market selling Balinese handicrafts and other items for tourists. You could easily buy all of your presents to take home in one visit here. At the eastern end where Jalan Melasti becomes Jalan Sri Wijaya, there is a morning fresh produce market which opens from about 5AM.

Eat

Legian’s beachfront restaurants are popular spots for sunset and people watching.

Budget

You can get bakso (soup with meat balls), mie goreng (fried noodles) and nasi goreng (fried rice) from the small warungs (outdoor cafes) on the beach. Very cheap and very tasty.

Mid-range

  • Bali Beach Shack Bar & RestaurantJl Sahadewa 7, . 11:00-midnight dailyLive music daily, Indonesian drag cabaret every Thur, Fri, Sat at 22:15and 23:15. Good service, Australian and Indonesian food. Despite the name, it is not by the beach.
  • Fresh WarungJl Legian, Legian (just south of Jl Melasti, right next door to Crown Restaurant), . Fresh Warung specialises in local & international dishes. It is small but cheerful, clean & serves up well-priced quality food. Emi, the owner, is cheeky and provides great service.
Indonesian Cuisine in Legian
  • Gosha Bar and RestaurantJl Melasti 7, . A huge, cavernous restaurant. The ambience and set up is not great, but the food is very reliable and this is a popular restaurant with Australian visitors especially. Been around since 1985. Broad menu offering seafood, western and Indonesian dishes.
  • Island CafeJl Legian, Gang #19 (near Air Asia office), . Daily 19:30-22:00Italian coffee (Segafredo) , healthy food choices, Free WiFi and a relaxed environment. Wood fire pizza oven. From Rp 30,000.
  • KetupatJl Dewi Sri, Legian, . The second branch of this top notch Indonesian restaurant. Similar to the long-established Kuta venue, decked out in a traditional Javanese style and with the same menu. High quality tastes of Indonesia.
  • LanaiJl Blue Ocean (Jl Pantai Legian), . On the site that used to be Benny’s Cafe, Lanai serves up big portions and has great views of the beach from the upstairs balcony.
  • Lemongrass Thai RestaurantJl Melasti, . Dine-in or takeaway Thai food. Lots of seafood and vegetarian options.
  • Seaside (formerly Cafe Warna), Jl Pantai Legian 14Now only open from mid afternoon. Food is decent, beachside setting very good indeed, and they have great bar. Closest restaurant to Hotel Jayakarta.
  • Tekor BaliJl Blue Ocean (Jl Pantai Legian), . Broad Indonesian menu and all food is beautifully presented. Great for Balinese and Indonesian specialties: try the Bebek Betutu, slow-roasted duck with Balinese spices. Perhaps the best breakfast on the beach in Bali. Midrange prices (entree Rp 50,000- Rp 100,000) for upscale food, this is one of Bali’s best bargains.
  • Waroeng AsiaJl Arjuna 23, Legian, . Popular Thai restaurant with very affordable prices. Large range of mid-priced meals. Rp 20,000-70,000.
  • ZanzibarJl Pantai Arjuna, . A well-established restaurant with excellent Italian cuisine and especially good pasta dishes. On the Blue Ocean beach, and so a good spot to watch all the action whilst enjoying an excellent meal.
  • 66 Corner Restaurant & CafeJl. Double Six/Jl. Werkudara 23, . Daily 08;00-23:0066 Corner offers cuisine from all over the globe. Happy hours from 16:00-18:00 with 30% off all beverages and free wifi is available. Covers also all sports games live on big screen TV, such as rugby, football, F1 and many more. Film nights every Tues and Thur. From Rp 20,000.

Drink

  • de ja vuJalan Blue Ocean 7X (Jalan Pantai), Legian (Go to the beach end of Jalan Double Six, turn left and it is 50 m on the left hand side), . A happening beach-side dance bar. Popular with the pre Double Six crowd from about midnight-03:00. Lightweight clubwear is appropriate and they can get sniffy about singlets and sandals. Check local listings for special events and name DJs.
  • Jaya PubJl Legian (junction of Jl Legian and Jl Nakula – down a small lane, well signed), . This live music bar has been around forever and gives a distinct impression of being stuck in a timewarp. Still, the bands are fun and beer is cheap.
  • MonsoonJL Werkudara (Nr Hotel Jayakarta), . Opening in the afternoon and closing at 01:00. Offers entertainment with a large collection of retro music videos from 1964-2000. A good variety of Tapas and drinks at reasonable prices. Selected smoking areas.
  • cobra mushroomgang poppies 2100.000.

Where to stay in Legian

This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:
Budget Under US$25
Mid-range US$25-130
Splurge Over US$130

Squeezed between Kuta and Seminyak, this area has a wide variety of accommodation options, and especially so in the mid-range market. Legian is a bit more upmarket compared to the surfer and backpacker-oriented Kuta, but distinctly downmarket from hip Seminyak.

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Former founder of Asiarooms.com and now reporting mainly on the Asia Pacific region and the global Coronavirus crises in countries such as Thailand, Germany & Switzerland. Born near Cologne but lived in Berlin during my early teenage years. A longterm resident of Bangkok, Udon Thani, Sakon Nakhon and Phuket. A great fan of Bali, Rhodes & Corfu.

Bali

Denpasar Expatriate Guide with Covid-19 Travel Report South Bali

Wolfgang Holzem

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on

Denpasar1000x600

Denpasar is the largest city and capital of the island of Bali, Indonesia. It is located in South Bali.

Understand

Denpasar is a bustling, multi-cultural city and although it can seem a little intimidating the first time you visit, just do not believe those travel guides which say it has nothing to offer.

Denpasar is bristling with temples, palaces and museums and its occupants are outstandingly friendly. You will be off the beaten tourist track here, so bring lots of time for a chat with the locals and a decent map of town. You can see many of the main sights comfortably on foot.

This is also a notable shopping city with options to please even the most jaded of world shoppers.

Denpasar is the seat of government in Bali and is therefore home to the provincial governor’s office as well as the administration of the Regency of Badung.

Indonesia Covid-19 Dashboard
917,015
Confirmed
9,086
Confirmed (24h)
26,282
Deaths
295
Deaths (24h)
2.9%
Deaths (%)
745,935
Recovered
9,475
Recovered (24h)
81.3%
Recovered (%)
144,798
Active
15.8%
Active (%)

Tourist Information Office

Jalan Surapati 6, Denpasar. ☎ +62 361 234569. 8AM-4PM. A source of information for current events in the city and for picking up a free map.

Get in

By road

Denpasar is centrally located and easily reached by car or taxi from the main tourist regions of south Bali. A trip from KutaLegian and Seminyak will take 20 to 30 minutes depending on traffic. Sanur is just 15 minutes to the east and Ubud about 30 minutes to the north.  Tabanan is about 40 minutes to the northwest.

A pre-paid taxi from the airport will cost between Rp 70,000-100,000, depending on exactly where in Denpasar you are heading to.

By bus

The main bus terminal of Denpasar is Mengwi. The former bus terminal is Ubung, which is now only a bemo terminal.

Most buses to and from Java depart from here.

  • To and from Surabaya, Java: expect to pay Rp 175.000 – Rp 200.000 by eksekutif night bus depend on the bus operator (famous: restu, wisata Komodo), including the ferry trip between Banyuwangi and Gilimanuk, mineral water and a meal. Buses arrive in the Bungurasih bus terminal in Surabaya. Depart everyday 7PM, duration 10 hr.
  • Other services operate to and from most big cities in Java, including Jakarta, Yogyakarta, Bandung and Semarang.
  • For high season idul fitri and new year allowing extra Rp 50.000 – Rp 100.000 per ride per person

By bemo

The bemo centre of Bali is Ubung. Inconveniently, bemo terminals are scattered all around town, and transfers between them can be time and money consuming. The major ones are:

  • Batubulan, 6 km northeast, for points central and east: (Besakih, Candidasa, Kintamani, Klungkung, Padang Bai, Ubud).
  • Tegal, to the west, for southern Bali: (KutaLegian,JimbaranNusa DuaSanurBukit Peninsula).
  • Ubung, to the north, for points north and west: (Gilimanuk, Negara, Singaraja, Tabanan).

Always ask a local for the normal price before getting in or expect to be charged a price up to ten times what it should be.

Don’t forget that a bemo departs when it wants (usually when it is “full enough”), which can sometimes require a lengthy wait, except in the early morning, where they are rather frequent. In any case, you won’t find any bemo after 4PM.

Travel by train to Denpasar

There is no train station in Denpasar, since there are actually no trains in Bali. But a travel agency in the Ubung bus terminal has an agreement with Kerata Api, the Indonesian train company.

You can buy so-called “train tickets” to and from Surabaya, including a bus (air-conditioned) to Banyuwangi, and the ferry between Gilimanuk and Banyuwangi, and then a train from Banyuwangi to Surabaya.

Price: Low season Business: Rp190.000 – Rp 235.000 Executive: Rp 240.000 – Rp 290.000

high season (eid fitri and new year) Business: Rp 255.000 – Rp 300.000 Executive: Rp 310.00- Rp 360.000

Business: air conditioning, seat can not be reclined, less leg space Executive: air conditioning​, seat can be reclined, more leg space, have leg rest

Those prices include a commission to the travel agency.

There are two services in each direction, each day:

  • 22:00 from Surabaya arrival 04:15 in Banyuwangi, arrival approx 11.30 noon in Denpasar.
  • 14:45 from Denpasar, train departing 22:00 from Banyuwangi, arrival 04:17 in Surabaya.

Get around

Denpasar can be a bit steamy and the traffic pollution a worry, but the centre of this city does lend itself to getting around on foot and walking is recommended.

By taxi

Taxis are widely available for hailing. If you have a group of people, you may want to negotiate a bemo (small van) for a set rate to your destination. Remember that pricing is negotiable. Indonesians are great people, however, they won’t think twice about overcharging you if they can.

By bemo

Bemo routes in Denpasar are extremely complicated. In addition to the three terminals described in the section above which operate longer distance bemos, there are three more which handle the local routes (as do the long distance terminals!) – Gunung Agung, Sanglah and Kereneng. Unless you are very patient and somewhat adventurous, bemo transport within Denpasar is best left to the locals to figure out. As a rule of thumb though most routes in the city seem to come through Kereneng Terminal on Jalan Kamboja at some stage.

To go from one bemo terminal to another within the city, the fixed price is Rp 7,000 although non-Indonesians may be asked to pay much more. A taxi can work out cheaper, is certainly faster and is indescribably more comfortable.

By motorbike

As elsewhere in Bali, motorbikes can be rented, although it is more normal for a visitor to arrive with a bike rather than rent one here.

What to see and do

When visiting any of the temples in Denpasar, remember to bring a sarong and sash with you. These temples receive relatively few foreign visitors and are unlikely to have temple dress available for hire or loan.

  • Alun-Alun Puputan (Puputan Square), Jl Gajah Mada/Jl SupratiThe huge four-faced, eight-armed Catur Mukha statue is situated here at the centre point of the city. Representing the Lord Brahma and it serves as a guardian of each cardinal point. The square is a key point of orientation for the whole city. If you get lost, find your way back here and all will be clear.
  • Bali Museum (Museum Negeri Propinsi Bali), Jl Mayor Wisnu (eastern side of the Alun-Alun Puputan), . Sa-Th 08:00-15:30, F 08:00-11:00A much under-patronised place by visitors which offers an informative introduction to all things Balinese, both historical and modern-day. Originally opened in 1910, the building was brought down in the 1917 earthquake and languished until 1932 when resident German artist Walter Spies sparked a major revival. The grounds and architecture are quite charming, and the museum is housed in four separate pavilions. The main pavilion has a great collection including ancient stone, bronze and wooden artifact. The southern pavilion houses many textiles, the northern pavilion concentrates on the history of Balinese performance art, and the central pavilion is devoted to Balinese Hinduism and ritual. If this place was in Kuta or Nusa Dua it would be swamped with tourists. Rp 11,000.

Pura Maospahit
  • Lapangan Puputan Margarana (Puputan Park), Jl Raya PuputanThis rather grandiose park is home to the huge Bajra Sandhi monument (literally Balinese Peoples Struggle). The design of the grey stone monument symbolises the date of Indonesian independence, August 17th 1945. There are eight entrances, 17 corners and the height is 45 m. The monument is most significant though for its commemoration of the various puputans (suicidal fight to the death) of the Balinese in the struggle against the Dutch in the early 20th century. At the northern edge of the park you will find the governor’s office and other government buildings.
  • Palace of Satria and the Royal TemplesJl Veteren (about 300 metres north of Alun-Alun Puputan). 08:00-16:00 dailyThe palace and temple of the royal family of Denpasar which is beautifully kept. It is open to all residents of Denpasar for worship. Some wonderfully ornate carvings, even by Balinese standards. Donation.
  • Pura Agung Jagatnata (Jagatnata Temple) (Adjacent to the northern boundary of the Bali Museum). A state temple which was built in 1953. Dedicated to the supreme being Sanghyang Widi Wasa, this temple is open to all worshipers without any restriction as it is a government building and not a village temple. There are large ceremonies here twice a month at full moon and dark moon. Ask at the tourist office for a detailed schedule.

Bali

Seminyak Expatriate Guide with Covid-19 Travel Report South Bali

Wolfgang Holzem

Published

on

Seminyak1000x600

Seminyak is a beach town in South Bali north of Legian and Kuta.

Understand

The next town north of Legian, Seminyak is more upmarket with mostly luxury accommodation and fashionable high-end restaurants and bars. The atmosphere is much more sophisticated and laid-back than Kuta, and the beach in particular is quieter during the day. Seminyak is also the high end spa and boutique shopping capital of Bali.

Nowhere is the upscaling of Bali in recent years more obvious than here.

It is hard to imagine that only ten years ago this was a distinctly separate village, and something of a backwater. Development has occurred at an astonishing pace, and as well as absorbing all green space which formerly separated Seminyak from Legian, it is now almost impossible to determine where Seminyak ends and the nearby villages of PetitengetUmalas and Kerobokan begin. This certainly has its downside, and the whole district has become very congested.

Indonesia Covid-19 Dashboard
917,015
Confirmed
9,086
Confirmed (24h)
26,282
Deaths
295
Deaths (24h)
2.9%
Deaths (%)
745,935
Recovered
9,475
Recovered (24h)
81.3%
Recovered (%)
144,798
Active
15.8%
Active (%)

Get in

Bali-Seminyak-Map.png

By car

Seminyak is part of the main west coast conurbation in South Bali and it can get very congested with traffic. There are two main routes in.

From Kuta and Legian, Jalan Legian runs parallel with the beach and at its western limit, becomes Jalan Seminyak.

If at all possible try to avoid this road though, and take instead the eastern bypass called Jalan Sunset.

This is almost invariably the quicker route from Kuta and Legian into Seminyak, although it is actually further in distance.

A prepaid taxi from the airport to Seminyak costs a fixed Rp 60,000. Trips to or from Kuta cost around Rp 30,000 and from Legian about Rp 15,000.

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Get around

The streets of Seminyak are increasingly jammed, with Jalan Laksmana being a particular black-spot. Your best options here are to walk or rent a motorcycle/bicycle.

A number of roads in Seminyak have alternative names. Whilst this issue is not exclusive to Seminyak, it does seem to happen here more than anywhere else in Bali. There follows a list of road names with the most popular given first and the alternatives afterwards in brackets.

  • Jalan Arjuna (Jalan Double Six, Jalan 66)
  • Jalan Raya Seminyak (Jalan Raya Basangkasa)
  • Jalan Dhyana Pura (Jalan Caplak Tanduk)
  • Jalan Laksmana (Jalan Oberoi, Jalan Kayu Aya)
  • Jalan Pantai Legian (Jalan Blue Ocean)
  • Jalan Mertanadi (Jalan Penjara)

Tourist Information Office

Jalan Raya Seminyak Gang Baik-Baik. ☎ +62 85253 000066. baliagustour@gmail.com 08:00-18:00. A source of information for current events in the city and for picking up a free map.

What to see and do

Pura Petitenget

Seminyak Beach and Petitenget Beach is a continuous expanse of grey sand stretching in both directions as far as the eye can see. To the south it becomes Legian Beach and then Kuta Beach, but is noticeably quieter than both. The sunsets here are famous, and opportunites abound to mix with the glitterati who frequent the high end beach front establishments such as Ku De Ta. Easy access points to the beach are at the end of Jalan Dhyana Pura, and from the large public car park (Rp 2,000) between Petitenget Temple and La Luciola restaurant.

  • Pura Petitenget at the beachside off Jl Petitenget is a compact, pretty Balinese temple, which is known for particularly spectacular beach-side ceremonies. There has been a temple here since at least the 16th century, and although this is not one of the key nine directional temples of Bali, it is an important link in the series of west coast temples between Pura Uluwatu and Pura Tanah Lot.

What to do

Diving

  • Nautilus Diving BaliJl. Drupadi 72 b, . 09:00 – 19:00PADI dive center. Courses, trips and safaris around the island. Languages: English, German, Spanish, French and Bahasa.

Spas, massage and other treatments

Seminyak is the high-end spa capital of Bali. Your spa experience here will be one of great luxury in a sophisticated setting. You pay up for all of that of course, but the prices are still 50% or more cheaper than you would pay in a western country.

If you are staying in one of Seminyak’s high end hotels there will undoubtedly be an in-house spa service. If you are staying in a villa, then in-villa treatments will almost certainly be offered – check with the staff.

  • Amo Beauty & SpaJl Petitenget 100x (opposite Bali Catering Company and Kayana), . 10:00-20:00 dailyA spa run by former model Navia Nguyen that offers massages and various spa treatments. From US$18.
  • Amoaras SpaJl Laksmana 57, . 09:00-22:00Traditional Balinese massage and treatments in a well established spa. From US$25.
  • Coco Grande – male spaJl. Dhyanapura (in same building like Club Cosmio), . 11:00-24:00Male spa offering wide range of treatments and quality services. Staff is male only. Also outcall service. From €25.
  • GloKunti Plaza , Jl Kunti 119, . 11:00-19:00A self-styled hip spa offering many different treatments. Positions itself to appeal to younger clientele than many of Bali’s spa establishments. From about Rp 100,000.
  • Jari Menari (Dancing Fingers), Jl Raya Seminyak, . 10:00-21:00Superb massage centre in Seminyak. The team who set up Jari Menari consult worldwide for other spas and massage houses. Also offer massage training classes. From Rp 275,000.
  • Prana SpaJl Kunti, . 10:00-22:00Attached to The Villas, this is one of Bali’s very best spas. Themed on a Rajasthan Palace. Massages from Rp 450,000, treatments from Rp 750,000.
  • Spa Venus BaliJl Raya Seminyak, Gg Plawa No33F (10 min walk from Bintang Supermarket), . 10:00-22:00Simple Balinese traditional massage to a complete detox programme including colonic cleansing and fasting, infra red sauna, deep healing treatments, allergy elimination, herbal medicine. From US$45.
  • Lagoon SpaJl Baik Baik, , fax+62 361 73565609:00-22:00Lagoon Spa offers a wide arrange of indulging body and beauty treatments. With relaxing environment, a Romanesque jacuzzi, sauna, rain shower and public pool. The treatments are drawn on the ancient health and beauty traditions of Asia. From about US$10.

Other

A little bit of surfing goes on here, but it is not as good as off Legian and Kuta beaches to the south, or at Canggu to the north.

Buy

Seminyak is the centre in Bali for hip and inventive fashion boutiques, other designer stores and art studios. A good starting point for any shopper would be the legion of small boutiques and designer stores on Jalan Laksmana.

Clothing and accessories

  • Bamboo BlondeJl Laksmana 61, . 10:00-21:00Innovative women’s wear and notably helpful and friendly staff.
  • BiasaJl Raya Seminyak 36, . 10:00-21:00This is the flagsghip store of the Bali fashion brand. Lightweight womenswear using natural fabrics.
  • Bong’sJl Raya Seminyak 42A, . 09:00-22:00This second line store owned by an Indonesian haute couture designer. High end fashion clothing made out of silk, linen and cotton.
  • Body and SoulJl Raya Seminyak 11i, . 10:00-21:00Women’s sportswear, beachwear and swimwear. Flagship store is on Jl Raya Seminyak and they also have a outlet in Seminyak Square.
  • Indigo & RoseJl Seminyak (50 m from Bintang Supermarket) and Jl Oberoi, opposite Seminyak Square, . 09:00-20:00Sister label of Indigo Kids. Stylish women’s clothes, accessories, sandals, jewellery and children’s wear. The flagship store is on Jl Oberoi next to Seminyak Square and there is a second store on Jl Seminyak.
  • Mario SilverJl Raya Seminyak 19 (just south of Bintang Supermarket), . 10:00-21:00The retail outlet of one of Bali’s leading silver jewellery designers and manufacturers. Wide range of high quality items.
  • Milo’sJl Laksmana 38, . 10:00-21:00.
  • ReligionJl Laksmana 4A, . 10:00-22:00A well established fashion boutique. Funky, eclectic and popular with a young clientele.
  • SabbathaJl Raya Seminyak 97, . 10:00-21:00If bling is your thing, you will like it here. Those of a more tasteful disposition might not. Glitzy, kitschy bags and other accessories.
  • ShamanJl Raya Seminyak 127 (next to Cafe Seminyak). 09:00-22:00A funky store which is an outlet for the Shaman Electro brand. Young streetwear.
  • we’ar concept storeJl Laksmana 12 (next to Corner Store). 09:00-22:00A very nice and colourful store which is the concept store for the we’ar brand. Great yoga we’ar and street wear.

Art

  • Buddha Gallery BaliJl. Raya Basangkasa, . Extraordinary collection of antique Buddha statues and sculptures, ritual implements and other related items, originating from Thailand, Burma, Laos, China and Japan. starts from US$100.
  • Folk Art GalleryJl Laksmana 17, Also known as Jl Oberio, . A great collection of art from all over South East Asia with an emphasis on Burma. fabulous collection of Burmese Buddhas but also beads, textiles, jewellery. Prices are from a few dollars up to US$10,000 (for an almost life-sized Marble Buddha). Caters to collectors or for gifts to take home.
  • Lukisan traditional & modern paintingsJl Kunti 310:00-18:30Stocks traditional Balinese, Buddhist, abstract, modern and pop art paintings. It is all a bit production line, but this is a gallery with very reasonable prices.
  • Richard Meyer CultureJl Petintenget 200x, . 10:00-20:00An elegant gallery showcasing art, photography and sculpture from contemporary Balinese artists.

Others

  • Bintang SupermarketJl Raya Seminyak10:00-22:00 dailyThis is the grand old aunt of supermarkets in Bali. It is a bit faded and old-fashioned looking these days but remains popular, and is a very convenient one stop for those visitors looking for the supermarket-type items that they would find at home. Also has a hardware section upstairs.
  • Seminyak SquareJl Laksmana (on the corner of Jl Laksmana and Jl Kayu Jati), . 1000-22:00Chic and modern shopping complex housing designer stores, restaurants and an excellent Periplus bookshop. Most unusually for Seminyak, there is a lot of public parking available here.

If you are looking for Indonesian antiques (genuine or reproductions), or just enjoy browsing for eclectic homewares, try Jalan Kerobokan between the junction with Jalan Seminyak and the next set of traffic lights to the north. This is a very busy road and moving around is not easy, but both sides of the street are lined with numerous furniture, antique and homeware stores. A quieter, but just as rewarding option for similar products, is Jalan Mertanadi which runs parallel to Jalan Kerobokan just to the east.Two traditional fresh produce markets remain in Seminyak. The most convenient is on the west side of the last bend at the very northern end of Jalan Raya Seminyak, and is widely known as Seminyak Market. A little more out of the way is a similar market in Kerobokan, called Taman Sari. Take Jalan Raya Kerobokan north from Jalan Raya Seminyak until you reach the first set of lights. Turn right and Taman Sari market is almost immediately on your righthand side. Both are best in the mornings from 07:00-11:00, and provide visitors with the opportunity to examine and purchase traditional, fresh local fruit and vegetables.

Eat

Over the past 10 years, Seminyak has developed a world-class dining scene. If you want to splurge on one very special dinner while you are in Bali, look no further than the higher end options in Seminyak. Prices are high by Bali standards but on an international scale still good value for the highest quality of food and eating environment. The clientele is demanding here and the turnover of restaurants quite high, so those that make it and stick around are invariably very good.

  • Hallo RestaurantsJl Nakula 4, Seminyak, . This handy service will deliver food to you anywhere in the Seminyak area. Their menu includes several of the restaurants listed below – you simply order with them and they pass on the order to the restaurant, pick it up and deliver to you. Allow about 45 min for delivery. Particularly useful for those staying at one of Seminyak’s private villas, many of which carry a copy of their menu and ordering instructions. If not, you can pick one up at their office or simply check the website. For the extremely lazy, they will even deliver beer and cigarettes. Delivery charge Rp 12,000.

Budget

Although they have become harder to find in recent years, there are still some excellent budget options available in the area.

  • Baku DapaJl Dhyana PuraThis great value warung is something of a legend in Seminyak. Stays open very late and is popular with the partying crowd. Serves Manado style Indonesian food at very keen prices. Highly recommended as a real taste of Indonesia.
  • Café Tahu (Tofu Cafe), Jl Petitenget 20Popular with locals, this restaurant has raised seating around a central courtyard and offers up a menu of tofu, tofu and more tofu, cooked Indonesian style for about Rp 10,000 per dish. The tofu is all made on premises and you can even buy a pack to take home. Concessions to meat-eaters include satay and grilled chicken.
  • KolegaJl Petitenget, . About 11:00-15:00, sometimes open in the early evening alsoThis simple, unassuming Javanese warung is an absolute institution amongst locals and expats alike. When it first gained the attention of travel guides there was a collective groan, but it has remained remarkably free from attention of the tourist hoardes. Choose your rice (options of plain, yellow and sometimes red) and the dishes to go with it. The various beef, chicken and fish dishes are fabulous, and the vegetables always fresh and fiery. Go easy on the sambal until you understand your heat tolerance. It is hard to think of a better, more authentic introduction to Indonesian food anywhere in Bali. Packed every day, and especially at lunch time. around Rp 20,000.
  • Little Green CafeJl Mertanadi 11, Kerobokan (turn north from Jl Sunset into Jl Mertanadi, look for the cafe on your left side after about 300 m), . 09:00-17:00 daily100% vegetarian and uses almost exclusively organic ingredients, most of them locally sourced. Excellent homemade cakes, cookies, fruit bars and fresh juices, as well as salads, soups, veggie burgers and daily specials. A little off the beaten path, but well worth the effort to get there. Mains Rp 25,000-35,000.
  • Mano Beach Side CaféSeminyak Beach (opposite Pura Petitenget). 10:00-20:00True to the name, this is a simple but stylish blue building by the beach, offering all sorts of drinks for around Rp 10,000 as well as sandwiches and pasta for around Rp 30,000 — not to mention cool breezes and great sunsets.
  • Warung BataviaJl Kunti Utara (turn north off Jl Sunset at the Jl Kunti lights and it is on the first bend you reach), . 11:00-19:00After years on Jl Kerobokan this long-established warung which serves excellent Javanese food has opened at a location with better parking. Always busy, but lunchtimes especially. Choose your food at the counter and sit at the sociable, shared tables. Spend Rp 25,000 for a fantastic quality meal.
  • Warung SobatJl Batu Belig (About half way down Batu Belig on the right hand side heading towards the beach), . 11:00-21:00Good value and popular Indonesian restaurant. Main dishes about Rp 20,000 to 30,000.

Mid-range

  • Biku, . 09:00-21:00 dailyExactly what it says on the label, “a tea lounge, restaurant, antiques and bookstore”. Quirky place with a lovely atmosphere. Great range of homemade deserts, salads and sandwiches, amongst more formal fare. The traditional English tea, complete with scones and cream, is a real hit. When you have finished eating have a browse through the antique gallery and the branch of Ubud’s famous Ganesha Bookshop.
  • Cafe JemmeJl Petitenget 28, . 11:00-22:00 dailyDiscrete, charming small restaurant set away from the road behind the Jemme jewellery shop. Serves creative food with Asian accents at very reasonable prices for the area. The crispy duck is especially recommended, and leave space for a superb line in desserts.
  • Cafe SeminyakJl Raya Seminyak 17 (right in front of Bintang supermarket), . 07:00-23:00Established in 2000, this is where the local community meets. All day long, this very busy cafe serves breakfasts with French croissants, baguettes and a big English breakfast with beans and sausage. The only downside here is that it is an outdoor cafe right beside a very busy and noisy road.
  • Gourmet Cafe (Bali Catering Co Cafe), Jl Petitenget, . 07:00-21:00 dailyThis is the cafe outlet of Bali’s most gourmet catering company. Superb salads, pastries, home baked breads, all day breakfasts, Italian coffee, and a quite remarkable range of teas. Also have great line in high quality frozen and fresh ready meals, both here and in their nearby shop. This is very handy if you are staying in one of Seminyak’s private villas. Indoor seating area which is non-smoking, and being Seminyak, a large alfresco smoking area.
  • Grocer and GrindJl Kayu Jati 3x, . 08:00-22/00Very contemporary deli-style cafe serving superb sandwiches, salads and pastries, and possibly the best coffee in Seminyak. Free WiFi.
  • Junction CafeJl Laksmana (on the corner of Jl Laksmana and Jl Kayu Jati), . 11:00-22:00Excellent cafe serving the best baguettes imaginable and salads at lunchtime, and specialising in pasta in the evening. Free WiFi. Belgian owned and operates.
  • Le TebuJl Petitenget 40X, . The French-owned Le Tebu offers diners salads, sandwiches and a few token Indonesian items. Dishes start from Rp 30,000.
  • Made’s WarungJl Raya Seminyak, . 11:00-23:00A Seminyak institution first established (in a different location) in 1969. Wonderful Indonesian food in a great location in a courtyard off of the main road in Seminyak. The western food is OK but nothing special; stay with the Indonesian dishes. Certainly not over-priced by Seminyak standards.
  • Queen’s TandoorJl Raya Seminyak, Number 1/73, . 12:00AM–23:30PMThe best Indian restaurant in Bali by a country mile. Consistently wins awards and it is easy to understand why. Superb tandoori chicken and fish, and huge, authentic biryanis. Vegan options available. Also has a delivery service. Rp 50,000.
  • RumoursJl Laksmana, Seminyak, . 18:00-23:00Incredibly popular restaurant serving great value western food. You cannot book here and there is often a long queue for tables.
  • Sate BaliJl Laskmana 22A (opposite Samaya resort), . 11:00-22:00Low-key but tastefully done open-air restaurant with well presented Balinese favorites like sate lilit (spiced meat on lemon grass sticks), plenty of pork dishes and fresh fish. Rp 50,000.
  • UltimoJl Laksmana 104 X, . 17:00-23:00 dailyItalian food is the go at this popular Laksmana restaurant. Has recently improved enormously. Good pastas and steak and carpaccio are the highlights. Same ownership as Rumours, just a few doors up the street. Mains Rp 40,000-100,000.
  • Waroeng BonitaJl Petitenget 100XA vast selection of western and Indonesian dishes, served in a garden courtyard. Prices start from Rp 50,000.

Splurge

  • La Lucciola (on the south side of the Petitenget temple car park). Right on Petitenget beach, serves breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner. Home of the Frangipani Bar, a popular choice for watching the sunset.
  • MetisJl Petitenget No6 (at the Kerobokan end of Jl Petitenget), . After 10 years as Bali’s top French restaurant the former Warisan closed and the management team from there have opened Metis, has ample parking. About Rp 1,000,000 per head.
  • SardineJl Petitenget 21 (northern end of Jl Petitenget, almost opposite Metis), . closed MondaysSpecialises in fish and other seafood prepared with a Mediterranean ethic. Intimate restaurant with a all bamboo design and clear views over the rice paddies. Mains Rp 100,000-150,0000.
  • Sarong RestaurantJl Petitenget No19x, . Original takes on Asian street and country food in a chic 5 star setting.

Drink

Many of Bali’s hippest nightspots are in Seminyak.

  • Hu’uJl Petitenget, . Part of the Singaporean nightspot chain. The star attraction is the lit central swimming pool, where the bold and the beautiful can jump in. The rest of the complex is chilled-out drinking and dining in the garden and pavilion. Draught beer at Rp 20,000 a glass, with cocktails around Rp 115,000+.
  • Ku De TaJl Oberoi (Laksmana) 9, . Stylish bar-restaurant complex with 2 bars, restaurant seating indoors and beachside divans to laze on while the DJ spins an eclectic mix of music, new and old. Soft drinks from Rp 20,000, cocktails from Rp 70,000, including bizarre selections such as black pepper and grilled pineapple Martini. Gets packed at weekends.
  • Lita Gunardi & The Backyard LoungeKunti Arcade 2&3, Jl Kunti I, . 11:00-24:00A lounge bar and restaurant attached to the Lita Gunardi boutique. The bar serves good cocktails and the restaurant specialises in Italian food.
  • The Living RoomJl Petitenget 2000x, . Just across the road from Hu’u and a similar bar which attracts a similarly hip clientele. Good cocktails and excellent DJ music. The restaurant is unreliable.
  • Red Carpet Champagne BarJl. Kayu Aya no 42, . Daily noon to lateA fairly ritzy bar, unsurprisingly, specialising in Champagne. Not as expensive as you might imagine, but by no means a place for a cheap drink.
  • Syndicate Club BaliJl Blue Ocean (right on he beach, next door to 66), . 22:00 to 04:00Late night dance bar with great ocean and beach views.
  • Potato HeadJln. Petitenget (next to W hotel), . Great beach club to mingle through the day and do people watching. Day beds are to be seen and require reservation. Food and drinks are nice. Especially popular for sunset
  • Pop’s BarNice rooftop bar with dinner options. Great ambiance.
  • Motel MexicolaJl Kayu Jati No 9, Petingenget Beach, . Mexican bar and restaurant that is popular for the Mexican dishes and the colourful design. Popular for drinks in the evening and the small dishes.

Where to stay in Seminyak

There is virtually no backpacker accommodation in Seminyak. Budget travellers will generally do better to stay in nearby Kuta or Legian. However, there are some (fairly uninspiring) losmen type places in Gang Bima which runs south off the northern end of Jalan Dhyana Pura, right in the heart of Seminyak.

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Bali

Sanur Expatriate Guide with Covid-19 Travel Report South Bali

Wolfgang Holzem

Published

on

sanurbeach

Sanur is a town on the east coast of South Bali.

Understand

Sanur is Bali’s oldest upscale resort area and is a mature beach-side town. Despite the abundance of restaurants and accommodation, it has a quiet and relaxed feel to it. Sanur tends to appeal most to middle-aged and older families, especially Europeans. Most hotels in Sanur are big, with spacious gardens.

Indonesia Covid-19 Dashboard
917,015
Confirmed
9,086
Confirmed (24h)
26,282
Deaths
295
Deaths (24h)
2.9%
Deaths (%)
745,935
Recovered
9,475
Recovered (24h)
81.3%
Recovered (%)
144,798
Active
15.8%
Active (%)

The Sanur area is sandwiched between the main Jalan Ngurah Rai bypass and the beach. One main route called Jalan Danau Tamblingan runs north to south through the town and it is easy to orient yourself with reference to this road.

Get in

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By car

Sanur is a 20-30 minute taxi ride from the Ngurah Rai International Airport, and a pre-paid coupon costs Rp 150,000. There are plenty of metered taxis all over the island who will be keen to take you to Sanur.

If you are driving yourself, this is one of the more staightforward areas of Bali to find as the main Jalan Bypass Ngurah Rai is the western boundary of Sanur. There are many well signposted exit points from this main road into the heart of Sanur. Allow about 20 minutes driving time from Kuta or Legian, about 30 minutes from Seminyak or Ubud and 10 to 15 minutes from Denpasar.

By bus

Sanur is well serviced by shuttle buses and bemos from the north and south and also from Denpasar’s Tegal terminal.

The bus company Perama has its Sanur office in Jalan Hangtuah, and offers difrect transfer here from Candidasa, Kuta, Lovina, Padang Bai and Ubud.

There’s also a bus service called Trans Sarbagita that runs the following route Terminal Batu Bulan (Gianyar) – Tohpati (DPS) – Sanur (DPS) – Kuta Central Park (Badung) – Jimbaran (Badung) – Nusa Dua (Badung).

Kura-Kura Bus is another bus company that passes through Sanur and other popular areas in Bali.

By boat

Boats from Nusa Lembongan arrive at the beach at the end of Jalan Hangtuah, and detailed schedules are given in the Nusa Lembongan article.

Get around

Jalan Danau Tamblingan, the main street in Sanur, has a number of outlets for car, motorbike and bicycle rental. A large number of metered taxis patrol the streets looking for passengers. Local bemos run with some regularity up and down both Jalan Danau Tamblingan and Jalan Danau Poso.

Sanur is also a great place to walk. Distances are not large, the streets are relatively quiet, and there is a splendid, paved beach front path which runs the whole length of the district.

  • Bali Store LuggageGang Telagasari 3, Jalan Danau Tempe IYou can store luggage here.

On foot

Walking in Sanur is pleasant. The pavement is about 2.5 m wide along Sanur Beach, suitable for the senior citizens who frequent this town to avoid the loud nightlife in nearby Kuta. Rental bikes sometimes use the pavement, too, but no motorcycles do.

What to see and do

This is a town with a wealth of cultural, natural and historical attractions, as well as the shopping and beach-related sights.

The annual kite festival at Padang Galak, Sanur
  • International Kite FestivalPadang Galak beach (just north of Sanur, east off the main Jalan Ngurah Rai bypass). The annual international kite festival takes place here every July. Traditional Balinese giant kites up to 10 m in length are made and flown competitively by teams from different villages around Bali. The origins of this event are as a festival intended to send a message to the Hindu Gods to create abundant crops and harvests. Aside from the actual organised festival, from June to August each year, visitors will see many giant kites being flown.
  • Le Mayeur MuseumJl Hangtuah (go the end of Jalan Hangtuah and turn right at the beach. Proceed along the paved footpath through the souvenir stalls and look for the entrance to the museum on your right), . Su-F 07:30-15:30This is the former home of noted Belgian impressionist Adrian Jean Le Mayeur, which is now a museum dedicated to his works. Le Mayeur arrived in Bali in 1932 and soon immersed himself in the culture of the island, and married a noted Balinese Legong dancer. Much of the house stands just as it did when he died in 1958, and apart from viewing his works, visitors will gain an insight into what it must have been like to be one of Bali’s very first expats. The whole place is in need of some maintenance, but this remains one of Bali’s hidden treasures. Rp 10,000.
  • Mangrove Information Centre (Mangrove Forest Suwung Kawuh), Jalan By Pass Ngurah Rai Km. 21, Suwung Kauh (just south of Sanur, singposted east off the main Jl Bypass Ngurah Rai), . Daily 08:00-18:00Visit the well-appointed Mangrove Information Centre set in the huge 600-hectare mangrove forest which fringes the east coast south of Sanur. There are two different boardwalks through the mangrove forest. This centre is doing great work in educating local schoolchildren as well as visitors, about the importance of mangrove forests. A good place to spend half a day for adults and children. Rp 200,000 for foreigners, Rp 50,000 for locals.
  • Pura Blanjong (Blanjong Temple), Jl Danau Poso, Blanjong (just south of Sanur). The most notable temple in Sanur which contains a major, important inscription on a stone pillar called the Prasati Blanjong. The inscription tells of a Javanese king who visited Bali in the 10th century and installed what was probably Bali’s first formal government. This is Bali’s oldest known artifact.
  • Serangan Island Turtle Conservation Centre (Turtle Island) (about 3 km south of Sanur, reached by turning east off the main Jl Ngurah Rai bypass), . 09:00-17:00 dailyVisit the Turtle Conservation and Education Centre here and learn about current conservation initiatives. This island used to be the centre of the Balinese trade in turtle meat until the practice was banned. Donation.

As well as shopping and eating, there are plenty of photo opportunities while walking along the splendid 5-km beachside paved path. The local night markets are a sensory delight, with plenty of food options.

What to do

The paved beachfront path at the Sanur Hyatt, looking east

Sanur’s splendid paved beachfront cycle-path stretches some 5 km from the Jalan Mertasari area in south Sanur, north to the main beach at Jalan Hangtuah. This makes for a lovely scenic bike ride, especially in the early morning. Some bikes are better maintained than others so you might want to test your hire-bike close to home for a while in case the pedals have a tendency to fall off.

Diving

Although the diving available around Sanur is not the best Bali has to offer, nearly all of Bali’s most established dive operators are located here. All offer trips further afield.

  • Atlantis Bali DivingJl .By Pass Ngurah Rai 96E, . Full range of dives and courses offered at this PADI 5-star dive operator. English, French, German, Spanish and Indonesian speaking instructors
  • BIDP (Bali International Diving Professionals), Jl. Blanjong I No. 333, . Large and long-established PADI dive centre offering dive trips all around Bali and full range of courses including technical diving
  • Blue Season BaliJl Danau Tamblingan 69x, . PADI Career Development Centre. Dive trips and safaris around Bali, and PADI courses from beginner to instructor. Also offers technical diving courses. Instruction offered in English, Japanese, Mandarin, French, Spanish, Dutch, German and Indonesian.
  • Crystal DiversJl Danau Tamblingan 168, . 7am – 9pmThis was the first PADI Career Development Centre in Indonesia. A full range of courses is available from intro dives to instructor courses as well as day dive trips and dive safaris around Bali. Offers PADI courses in Swedish, Danish, English, Indonesian, German, Japanese and Mandarin.
  • Diving BaliJl Danau Tamblingan 27c, . One of the best dive centres in Sanur offering dive courses, fun dives and liveaboard trips. Offers a full range of fun dives and courses
  • Joe’s Gone Diving BaliNgurah Rai Bypass 44A, . A professional, Dutch-owned PADI 5-star IDC dive center offering PADI dive courses, daily dive trips and dive safaris around Bali. Courses are given in multiple languages.
  • Neptune Scuba Diving (Neptune Diving Bali), Jl. Suka Merta, Sanur, Bali, . Daily 07:00-19:00PADI 5-star IDC and Disabled Divers International dive resort in Sanur, Bali. Take your first breath underwater, go for a fun dive, get your padi certification in Bali or join a family snorkelling trip. US$100.

Surfing

Bali is one of the most famous surfing locations in the world and Sanur is one of the most famous surfing locations for intermediate surfers coming to Bali. With already well established surf schools located here, beginner, intermediate and even families can join these establishments for some surfing fun.

Laundry

There are many places to do your laundry in Sanur. Most hotels provides they own laundry service, mostly with more expensive rates than local laundry rooms. Almost every street corner has a laundry service.

  • Cinta Alam Organic LaundryJl. Batur Sari 44 (the end of Jl. Sekuta turn left 50 m left on side). 08:00-20:00High-quality laundry service without the use of harmful chemicals. You can choose an aromatherapy fragrance. Pick up and delivery is on request and free in the Sanur area. Rp 15,000/kg.

Spas

A day at any of the spas in Sanur is exactly what you would expect during your stay in Bali: full service treatment steeped in Balinese tradition. Take advantage of any opportunity to enjoy a spa during your stay, the cost here is at least half what you would pay in North America or Europe. All major hotels have in-house spa facilities and there are also several well established independents in Sanur.

  • Mandurah SpaJl Danau Tamblingan, .
  • Puri EstheticJalan By Pass Ngurah Rai 209, .

Watersports

The more active could try one or more of the many watersports on offer at Sanur Beach. Try kitesurfing, windsurfing, wakeboarding, surfing or paragliding. For those less active, hire a banana boat and hit the calm waters.

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Are Indonesia’s borders still closed?

Yes, due to safety reasons, Indonesia’s borders are currently closed and limited access is allowed for specific travel purposes to authorized personnel only.

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